Estitkw/Apodaca Escapade

July 19, 2026

I awoke unprompted by my alarm at 5:30AM. I showered, unplugged all the electronics that had been charging overnight and hit the road for Jericho Sailing Association. Since my seasonal parking pass doesn’t cover overnights in the Jericho lot, I parked a few blocks away, piled the last of my gear and the fresh food in the cart. (I’d prepositioned most of my gear inside my boat yesterday, when I’d been guiding and instructing for Jericho Beach Kayak).

With the help of the JBK rental staff, I launched my laden boat about 9:45AM. The headwinds were already rather stronger than predicted in yesterday’s forecast on windy.com, so it took me until 11AM to reach the second dolphin at the west end of Spanish Banks. From here, I aimed more-or-less towards Point Cowan on Bowen Island — more when a lull in the wind and/or breaking waves made it possible and safe to head northwestish, and less when I had to turn straight into spilling swells for stability. It required constant alertness to monitor and prepare for the next set of would-be kayak capsizers.

Approaching the second dolphin, west end of Spanish Banks, English Bay, Vancouver, BC

I cannot lie: there were a few times I was a bit nervous, and I used my braces “for real” more than once. But mostly it was a matter of (very) slow, steady plugging along. The seas were a sporty combination of swells, tastefully overlaid with wind waves, all set off beautifully with whitehorses and long streaks of white foam. 

a sea kayaker's point of view of a breaking swell near the bow of the boat

Any tedium was relieved by two passenger fast catamarans (Hullo Ferry’s entire fleet) criss-crossing in front of me, Nanaimo and Vancouver bound respectively. Their wakes interacted in challengingly unpredictable ways with the swells and wind waves. So “Wakey! Wakey! Rise and brace!” Not long after this, an American sailing yacht actually detoured to pass close and check if I was OK. Nice of them.

A high speed catamaran ferry generates spilling wake in front of a sea kayak.
Hullo Ferry; hello wake!

At one point, I had to surrender a fair bit of my hardwon progress, and swing down to a course toward Point Grey to ensure I would pass astern of a northbound freighter making its eastward arc into the Port Of Vancouver. Technically speaking I was at least a few hundred metres clear of the mouth of the inbound traffic lane marked on the charts, but I’m far too polite to make an issue of these kinds of things. Particularly with vessels that outweigh mine thousands to one.

As advertised in the Wildcoast Recreational Map (and my previous experience), the area southwest of Passage Island was rockin’ and rollin’ from the crashing currents of Howe Sound and English Bay, overlaid with the wind.

By midafternoon, I was rather thirsty and peckish. Fortunately, I had thoughtfully stowed a water bottle and snacks in my Northwater Underdeck Bag. Unfortunately, the deck of my sprayskirt was regularly awash with green water and I dared not pop the front open. Perhaps, like Paddington Bear, I should in future keep a marmalade sandwich under my hat “in case of need”.

Until now, I’d been navigating by chart, compass and Mark I eyeball, both as a matter of professional pride, and because constantly squinting at the screen of a GPS is a recipe for seasickness in big water. But now I fired it up to confirm the faint line through the trees I’d spotted on Bowen Island marked Optimist Creek leading down to Apodaca Cove. I was more than a little smug when the multi-million dollar satnav system agreed with me. 

On the downside, it was now after 15:00 hours and the GPS’s prediction was that with my current slow plod, I wouldn’t reach camp until 17:30ish. Faced with this, I seized upon a moderately mad plan: I was now slightly upwind of Apodaca. Did I dare raise my sail in winds and waves this big? I did so dare. To achieve a beam run made good, I actually needed to point slightly upwind. This put me effectively beam on to the swells and breaking waves. But I reckoned that with the forward drive from the sail, I could stick my Greenland paddle out at right angles to the kayak on the upwind side, and use it as a foiling outrigger. I’ve been doing this while kayak sailing for years, but these were among the most challenging conditions I’d attempted. But all went well: spilling swells at times buried the blade a foot or more underwater, but I simply angled the leading edge of the paddle until it flew back to the surface.

a wave breaks across the bow of a sea kayak sailing

The experience had a little bit of the mad exhilaration I’d always imagined for Ernest Shackleton’s party when they did their do-or-die sitting glissade down the mountains of South Georgia.

Having judo’ed the wind from enemy to ally, I rocked up at Apodaca at 16:15. Six and a half hours was the longest continuous stretch I’d spent in the cockpit in a long time, and the sea conditions were the most “technical” I’d paddled in quite a while (Paddle Canada Level 2 spilling over into Level 3 for those who know.) So while it had been hard work, there was satisfaction in knowing the ol’ bod still has it when needed. 

Apodaca Ho!

I bobbed a bit offshore of the beach for about ten minutes to let the wake from a passing BC ferry arrive and then disperse. The two rollers I’d homebrewed from wooden doweling sheathed in pool noodle foam made getting the loaded boat up the rocky beach much easier. There is a wooden kayak rack in the upland above the beach. But between the top of the beach and the rack is a gnarly barricade of tangled driftwood logs, as though a giant had been playing pick-up-sticks. I judged that solo portaging my boat across these multiple leg traps ran too high a risk of fracturing bones and/or boat, so I slid my craft as high up the logs as I could manage, then tied the bow off to a tree. 

Landed at Apodaca. The (inaccessible) kayak rack is visible in the shadows to the right of the signpost.

The switchback path up to the tent platforms was rather steep, but the view from the camping area was amazing: Passage Island, the city, and Point Grey in one wonderful sprawling panorama. Per my recent practice on shorter trips, I’d grabbed a panful of food from the self-serve buffet at my local T&T market, and frozen it at home for my first night’s supper. So as I made camp, dinner was thawing and heating in my Outback Oven. There’s something deliciously decadent about having Chinese takeout–Spring Rolls, Sweet n’ Sour Pork, noodles and stir-fried veggies–in camp.

As I write this entry, I can still feel the roll of the swells in my balance system; I know from previous experience this will feel like being rocked in a cradle once I lay on my sleeping pad. Just as I was ready to abandon my folding armchair for bed, a pair of bats appeared in the twilight and put on a flitting skyshow for me.

July 20, 2026

I read only a few paragraphs of my book (Armada by John Stack) before falling into the sleep of the just (the just pleasantly exhausted…)

I awoke painlessly at 8AM. Down to the boat to retrieve my forgotten coffee mug. Last night’s high tide (probably aided by ferry wake) has rearranged the lower driftwood logs on the beach, and may make tomorrow’s launch trickier.

The plastic triglide on one of the front hatch cover straps has snapped off; I field repaired it by tying the strap off to one of the stay anchor padeyes for my Falcon Sail. I’m overall really pleased with how the front and rear compartment hatch covers did. There’s a bit of mild dampness in the stern compartment, but no full-on liquid water. Pretty impressive considering the long hours in breaking seas during yesterday’s crossing. I’m glad to have added a thin strip of neoprene gasketing to the inside of the stern hatch cover.

I breakfasted on canned hash, Starbucks instant coffee and eccles cake (leftover dessert from last night I was too stuffed to finish.) As I ate, I watched a hummingbird mistake my grey and red tent for an oversize flower. On the blue water below, pleasure craft and private fishing boats passed, showing (to me at least) that in many, if not most, humans, something in us yearns for the sea.

I’m glad to be taking what real athletes would term a “recovery day”. I take advantage of the flat tent platform to do some “prayer stretches” for the squished discs in my back.

Looking to North Vancouver

After having cunningly rigged two perfect lines for my hammock, I discovered to my chagrin that I’d packed the bag containing the bug netting for the hammock, but not the hammock itself! So I’m having to rough it in my folding armchair, which I slowly migrate around the tent platform so it’s in the shade throughout the day.

I have a bit of sunburn on my forehead. I don’t usually apply sunscreen there as sweat tends to carry it into my eyes, inducing a tear-gas like effect. And usually the wide brim of my sunhat protects it. But yesterday’s prolonged upwind paddle kept pushing the hat back and exposing my brow. 

The seas appear teasingly calm in the lee of Bowen Island, but looking out into the Strait, I can make out white seas even with my naked eye.

The forecast is for light winds from the west tomorrow, so I think I will aim for the red buoy off Point Grey (which bears 127° magnetic from here), then hopefully broad reach back and forth under the sail back to Jericho.

My chart for this trip, with some bearings and LOPs pre-marked for navigational convenience.

I’m enjoying drinking off the ice water from the cold packs in my cooler as they thaw. Very refreshing on a hot day. The interior of the cooler is still cold enough that I have no concerns about the food safety of tonight’s smokies inside.

The bugs were out more strongly tonight, and I could not locate the Bug Off I was sure I’d packed (PS: naturally, when I unpacked at home, I found it immediately.) So I retreated to the tent and hit the bed early. 

I woke up briefly in the night brooding about the shifted driftwood logs and ferry wake making the morning’s launch difficult and/or dangerous.

July 21, 2026

I’d set my alarm for 6AM, but woke up naturally at 5:30. So nice to break camp in the dry and in daylight. Instant oatmeal for breakfast. No coffee as I don’t know how long I’ll be in the boat this morning.

I skidded my boat back over the driftwood logs and launched safely at 8:30AM, par for my course of 3 hours from getting up to getting away. Wonderfully calm on launch – so nice staring down into the cool green depths.

I marked my southward progress by watching the south tower of the Lion’s Gate bridge (just visible through the distance and haze) migrate steadily from left to right of the Point Atkinson Lighthouse.

 From left to right: North Vancouver, First Narrows, Stanley Park, downtown Vancouver, Kitsilano, Point Grey
The hazy days of summer (forest fires). From left to right: North Vancouver, First Narrows, Stanley Park, downtown Vancouver, Kitsilano, Point Grey

My goal was to get far enough south far enough that by the time the morning inflow winds picked up, I’d be in the “suck zone” of English Bay rather than Howe Sound. At first, rising ripples on the sea’s surface weathervaned to me that I was still in the Howe Sound catchment area. Then, about an hour and a quarter after launch, the ripples shifted from coming dead ahead to on the starboard quarter; I’d hit the tipping point. Though the airs were still only very light, I raised the sail.

This screenshot was taken from another trip, but shows the boat and set-up I was using. Bowen Island is visible in the background.

Despite pointing my bow just east of Point Grey, the wind angle and a strong inflow tide swept me hard east, so that at times I had to paddle-sail to avoid hitting freighters rudely anchored in my path.

Once I reached the first (eastmost) dolphin off Spanish Banks, I was able to proceed on sail only the rest of the way to Jericho, landing at 11:30AM. Three hours home vs. six and a half on the way out. I’d earned my fish n’ chips at The Galley.


Rooms With A View: The Basics Of Tarpology

If you’re sea kayak touring in British Columbia, and out for any length of time, it’s not a matter of if it will rain, but when it will rain. They don’t call it “The Wet Coast” for nothing. In such Noahscape situations, being able to rig a secure kitchen-dining shelter is essential to ward off both cold and cabin fever.   

Showing a camp tarp rigged in an A-frame configuration
The classic A-frame bungalow roof tarp configuration, with an end pole improvised from driftwood.
Read more: Rooms With A View: The Basics Of Tarpology

Materials

If you only camp very occasionally, even the basic “plastic” tarps from your local Crappy Tire or Home Depot will suffice. They will be bulky and not terribly durable — though pinholes are easily fixed with duct tape. Please don’t let their semi-disposable price point tempt you to abandon them in the field at the end of your trip. Blue is the most commonly available colour, but if you can find orange, it provides a more cheery ceiling in the rain (this is true of all tarps: yellow and orange fabrics create a gloom-dispelling faux-sunlit vibe even on cloudy days.)

Polyester (PU) coated fabric tarps are more durable and compact, and, predictably, more expensive.

The most compact of all tarps are made with silicone-coated fabrics. (I fondly remember field-testing a prototype tarp for my erstwhile outdoor retailer employer decades back, before silicone fabrics were common. I wound up sharing a backcountry campsite with a friendly father and son. Their astonishment when I conjured an 8’ x 10’ tarp out of a soda-can sized stuffsack was as if I had produced not a rabbit, but an elephant, out of a hat.)
Silicone fabrics are also highly stuffable, saving a lot of time with folding and rolling.

Shapes

Several companies make cunningly-tailored wing tarps. I’ve owned a couple and really loved the catenary-cut, sag-defeating ridgeline and the assured-drainage scalloped edges. I was less enamored of the single set-up option. Particularly at improvised sites deep in the backcountry, vegetation often rudely insists on growing exactly where you need the edges of the wing to be. So these days, I carry rectangular or square tarps. They take a bit more rigor in rigging to prevent pooling water, but are more adaptable to cramped and oddly-shaped sites. 

Lines

When it comes to rope, the rule is: it’s hard to have too much. I typically carry at least a couple of hundred feet of paracord, in hanks of about 20 feet. The more line you have, the more options you have for set-up. By splicing one hank to another with a square knot, you can anchor lines to remote branches, trunks and roots. 

Showing a tarp rigged with very long lines, anchored to rock and trees up to a hundred feet away.
Playing the long (line) game. Having plenty of cord lets you float your tarp pretty much wherever you want it, even when natural anchor points are not nearby.

Brightly coloured lines will reduce stumbles and self-strangulation as you walk under and out from your roof. You can even buy reflective cord, which shows up beautifully in headlamps, and makes an excellent navigation beacon if you’ve wandered far into the bush to answer nature’s call at night.

Rigging Your Roof

If you’re setting up the classic A-frame bungalow roof configuration, you typically start by rigging the two high points that will form the ends of the tarp’s ridge, then adding the side and corner lines. 

Some folks like to do this by rigging a literal ridgeline —  a thicker rope running between two trees and/or poles. Next, they drape the tarp over this line, and use short lengths of cord wrapped in prusik knots (see below) around the ridgeline and secured to tabs or grommets on the tarp to stretch it along the ridgeline. This creates a very strong structure, but with the downside that the ridgeline rope chafing against the tarp may eventually wear the waterproof coating and/or the fabric itself to the point that it leaks. And dead centre of your roof ain’t a great place for leaks. 

Showing the A-frame configuration of a tarp without the use of poles
Look mah! No poles! The classic A-frame roof made by suspension only.

So for chafety reasons, I usually opt to simply stretch out the two attachment points at either end of the tarp’s centreline, letting the tensioned fabric itself create the ridge. Separate-ridgeline-rope enthusiasts will sneer that this stresses the fabric of the tarp more and is a weaker structure in wind. They are not wrong. But, tocca ferro, in decades of touring, I haven’t had a tarp tear yet. This might be because I retire my tarps (or demote them to “windbreaks only” duty) once the waterproofing has worn out, and this typically occurs long before the fabric itself is brittle. 

If you’re at a site that doesn’t accommodate retangular, symmetrical roof sides, think outside the box: make the diagonally opposite tarp corners the ends of your ridge, so the sloped sides become asymmetrical triangles that can poke between barricading trees and bushes.     

Showing a tarp rigged with an interior pole.
The high centre(ish) point setup. The tip of the pole is covered with a stuffsack to reduce chafe on the tarp.

Another classic tarp configuration is the high centre point, with the sides sloping down to form a shallow (and not necessarily symmetrical) pyramid. You can raise that centre point from the inside or the outside. From the inside, it’s via a pole of some kind, store-bought or improvised from driftwood. Either way, the tip where the pole makes contact with the tarp fabric should be condomized with a stuffsack to reduce chafe.

showing a kitchen tarp rigged with a centre pole made from a driftwood log
A driftwood log, upended and with the low end buried deep in the sand, makes a secure centre pole for this cozy camp kitchen.

Raising the centre point from the outside maximizes usable interior space. If there’s a cooperatively placed branch above the tarp site, just sling a line over it, tie it off to the topside tarp tab, then hoist the far end of the line and tie it off to a tree trunk or branch. (Your D.O.T. mandated “buoyant heaving line” works a treat for this.) 

a tarp suspended pyramid-style over the vestibules of two tents.
Centre-suspended pyramid configuration. Hanging from an overhead branch, this tarp forms a rain-free “mud room” for both tents.

If there’s no handy overhead branch, run a line from tree to tree above the tarp, then attach a prusik knot to this line and hence to the topside tab. This way, you’ll be able to slide the attachment point along the high line to fine-tune the tarp’s position. 

The blue line runs above this tarp from tree to tree. It’s connected to the topside tarp anchor point with a short, separate piece of cord wrapped into a prusik knot.

At breezy kitchen sites, you’ll want to rig the tarp as a combination windbreak and roof, with one edge at ground level. This will block wind-blown rain and keep gusts from wicking heat away from you and your camp stove. Some folks just rig their tarp as a simple lean-to, but these flat surfaces are prone to inverting into a sail when hit by strong wind. So I prefer to do a sort of pyramid tilted on one side. With the tip of the pyramid pointed into the wind and anchored securely, the tarp is much more aerodynamic and wind shedding.

Showing a tarp rigged as a leanto windbreak.
The “tilted pyramid” windbreak configuration. On the outside of the black patch above my head, a line runs to the tree branch beyond, preventing the tarp from inverting when wind hits the far side.

Though I do carry a few pegs for my tarp lines, I generally prefer to tie the lines off to tree branches, driftwood logs or roots. Natural anchors are usually more secure than pegs.

To minimize wrinkles and maximize drainage, try to run the lines from the side of your tarp as close as possible to 90 degrees away from the centre ridgeline, and corner lines out at roughly 45 degrees. Where lack of anchor points or the presence of obstacles prevents running a single line at the optimum angle, attach two lines to a single tab or grommet, run them out to whatever anchors are available, and tension them differentially to rid the tarp of ruckles.

As anyone who’s ever schlepped even a 5-litre waterbag knows, it doesn’t take a vast volume of water to be seriously heavy. So you want to ensure your tarp setup won’t trap large rainpools, lest there be rending of fabric and gnashing of teeth. Preventing pooling isn’t always a matter of going higher with your tarp lines or steeper with your tarp slopes. Sometimes it’s as simple as creating drainage valleys at the lower edges of your tarp. Do this by suspending a light weight, such as a water bottle, stuff sack with pebbles, or small piece of driftwood from one of the grommets or tabs.   

Knots

I have a pretty basic repertoire of knots that I mix-n-match as needed for rigging. The trucker’s hitch lets you apply a lot of tension to a line easily, so I tend to use it for the ends of the ridge attachment points, or for a tree-to-tree line that I’m going use a prusik hitch to suspend the topside attachment point from to form a high centre point pyramid. For the side or corner lines a tautline hitch usually provides enough tension. A simple square knot is great for splicing lines together to extend your anchor options. In the photo below, I used a pair of Japanese square lashings to secure the tarp pole vertically against the end of the picnic table. You can also use a square lashing to attach the ends of driftwood poles together to form an A-frame for one end of your tarp. 

Poles

If you can find one of suitable size on site, driftwood poles are an excellent option: they’re free, fully biodegradable, and take up no room in your boat. That said, I often carry at least one tarp pole for convenience and assurance I’ll have the right pole for my needs. I find the fully-telescoping type is easy to stow against the keel line of my kayak, but its minimum collapsed length is a few feet. If you have tighter hatches, you might need poles that fold tent pole style to fit through them.  

Tarps For Tents

Even if your tent’s fly is reliably waterproof, there are several reasons you might want an over tarp for it, especially on extended tours in persistent rain: 

Firstly, it’s wonderful to have a dry porch roof/mudroom where you can stand up to doff and don wetwear without getting the tent interior soggy. 

Secondly, in seriously heavy rain–the sort that hammers down in dollops rather than drops–bedtime in an unshielded tent can be like trying to sleep inside a drum at a heavy-metal concert. Intercepting the rain a foot or two above the fly dials down the din from crazy-making to practically cozy. 

Thirdly, like me, you may well be fond of breathing right through the night. Each of your hundreds of exhalations contains water vapour. The cooler and wetter your tent fly is on the outside, the more of that breath vapour will condense against its inside. Wet begets wet. In a really prolonged rain in cooler weather, so much breath moisture can condense against a fly’s interior that it looks–and feels–as though the fly is leaking. By keeping the outside of the fly dryer, an over tarp will vastly reduce this effect.  

Finally, by rigging the over tarp first and taking it down last, you can set up and pack up your tent out of the rain, and keep the interior canopy dry. Or at least dryish.        

Sea Kayak Navigation: thoughts on GPSs and smartphone navigation apps

The first module of the online sea kayak Trip Planning Course I teach is all about navigating by chart and compass. And one of the questions I inevitably get asked during that lesson is “What about GPSs or smartphone/tablet navigation apps?”

Read more: Sea Kayak Navigation: thoughts on GPSs and smartphone navigation apps

My answer is “I love’m—in their place.” And that place is alongside, not instead of charts, compasses, and hardcopy tide and current tables. Nor am I saying that as some cranky luddite: I was a very early adopter of portable GPSs. I owned one of the first internal battery powered versions in the early 1990s, a Magellan NAV 5000D.

The flower of 1990s technology

This bigger-than-a-brick unit had no built-in scrolling charts: You had to determine the coordinates of your desired destination from a paper chart and manually key them in. Likewise, you needed to transpose the real-time position, shown as raw latitude and longitude numbers on a monochrome LCD, onto your paper chart. That was great for confirming where you were once you’d landed and weren’t moving. But when you were getting surfed along off a lee shore, trying frantically to determine how close you were to sandbars lurking beneath the muddy waters of a shallow Arctic sea? Rather too much latency (as in “The late Philip Torrens was found not far from the reef that had capsized the kayak…”). So by today’s standards, that GPS was risibly clunky (It’s literally a museum piece now.) But by the standards of the time, it was revolutionary. It was an incredible help in finding our way through the often featureless Canadian Arctic.  

Navigating like it’s 1993! On the lower left, just above the folded blue chart case, sits a Magellan NAV 5000D, complete with its vertical external antenna in a pivoting white housing of its own. Today, GPSs are much slimmer, lighter and faster. The kayaker-wader on the upper right? Rather the opposite on all counts, really.

Since then I’ve almost always owned and carried a GPS of some type while kayaking anywhere other than in my backyard waters of English Bay in Vancouver, BC. As with all consumer electronics, features have expanded as cost and size shrink. Today’s units can hold integrated scrolling charts that show your position relative to the land and seascape in real time, just as the maps app on your smartphone shows a rolling roadmap when you’re driving.   

A screen shot of the "map" page from an early GPS, showing that it has no topographic or hydrographic details.
A screenshot of the “map” page from a last-millennium GPS. No topographical or hydrographical details. A big help, huh?

One of the functions I like best and use most with GPSs is their ability to automagically offset for drift from wind and current in real time and guide you along a fairly straight line to your destination, as opposed to a much longer arc. 

There are formulas for predicting the upstream angle you should ferry given a particular current speed, crossing distance and paddling speed—see David Burch’s excellent Fundamentals Of Kayak Navigation. But both current speed and paddling speed can vary over the course of a long crossing. Throw in the wildcard of wind, and holding a straight course gets pretty problematic. Likewise, there are techniques for using ranges and/or changing compass bearings to detect and offset drift. But they rather rely on being able to clearly see specific real world features, which won’t always be possible, especially when your landfall is on or over the horizon. So the longer the crossing, the better I like my GPS.

GPS’s real-time drift detect-and-correct is handy even over shorter distances when I’m kayak sailing. Because kayaks aren’t keel boats, they’re subject to a lot of drift with a sail up, especially when on any point of sail other than running before the wind. With more complicated rigs such as the Falcon Sail I’ve got on my rudder kayak, the crew is often fully occupied trimming the sails properly and has little spare bandwidth for monitoring drift. The GPS helps me point my kayak just far enough off or across the wind to get where I want to go, without stalling by pointing unnecessarily high upwind. 

Another very cool feature on many GPSs and apps are the built-in tide and current tables. Often these are not mere numerical columns with times of lowest and highest waters and minimum-maximum current speeds, but also graphs that let you easily determine precise water depths and current speeds at any interim between the highs and lows. That’s really handy for finding tent sites on the beach that won’t feature ensuite swimming pools at midnight, or for deciding just how long after slack water it’s still safe to run Suckemdowne Narrows.

Although it’s great to let the GPS magic box do all that math for you, you should retain a working knowledge of formulas such as the rule of twelfths, the rule of thirds, and the 50/90 rule, plus hard copies of the tide and current tables for the areas you’re paddling. This will both improve your intuitive understanding of what the magic box is telling you, and ensure you’re not left helpless if the magic ever dies due to exhausted batteries or saltwater leakage. 

Damn! We missed our slack water window!

I personally have a strong preference for freestanding GPS units over phone or tablet apps. Part of that is probably just intellectual inertia: I’ve been using GPS-specific devices for decades and am very familiar and comfortable with them. But there are practical reasons as well: I prefer actually owning the unit and the data in it to renting an app on a subscription basis. I’ve heard too many horror stories of companies nickel-and-diming their subscribers with fee increases, reducing or bricking functionalities when pushing out upgrades you can’t opt out of, or orphaning apps when they go out of business. I also prefer not having all my electronic eggs in one basket: if I lose my navigation functions for whatever reason, I don’t want to have also lost my phone functions, or vice-versa. Last, but far from least, it’s much easier to operate real buttons than a touchscreen through the plastic window of a waterproof soft case.*

 *You absolutely do want cases for your GPSs and phones, notwithstanding any manufacturer’s claims about their integral waterproofness. The one time I insufficiently sealed my soft case, then knocked it into the sea while docking, the supposedly waterproof GPS inside drowned itself in a fit of pique.   

Despite my personal preferences for stand-alone GPSs, I can see the case, so to speak, for navigational apps such as Navionics or savvy navvy. They make for one less physical gadget to buy and carry (and for reduced end-of-life e-waste). Plus, to a generation accustomed to downloading apps for everything from ordering dinner to help with stargazing, I’m sure that instantly adding one more functionality to your phone just feels simpler and more intuitive.

That said, I just recently upgraded my ancient (but still operating) Garmin GPSmap 76Cx to Garmin’s GPSmap 276Cx. The new unit is a bit bigger than the old one, which sounds like a retrograde step. But that’s actually a feature, not a bug: the significantly larger screen makes chart details much easier for my elderly eyeballs to read. 

Showing the Garmin GPSmap 76Cx GPS and the Garmin GPSmap 276Cx side-by-side to allow comparison of the screen sizes
Size matters: the relative screen sizes of the Garmin GPSmap 76Cx GPS and the Garmin GPSmap 276Cx. Pocket knife for scale.

Which leads us to an important way GPSs work best alongside hardcopy charts rather than in lieu of them: even the larger screen on my new GPS is only about 2.5” x 4.25”, while the “screen size” of my smallest chart bag is about 9” x 12” (and I have larger ones). Meaning the paper chart covers more area in more detail than the map page of even the largest tablet you’d care to mount on your foredeck. And all at-a-glance, fully sunlight-readable, no zooming or panning-and-scanning required. So when you’ve blundered into the thick of Shipwreck Rocks to find larger-than-forecast swells running, you can use your GPS’s chart page to determine your precise position in relation to immediate local hazards, and the big picture from your paper chart to ensure that the escape route you’re improvising doesn’t turn out to be a literal deadend.

Showing a chart in a chart bag on the deck of a sea kayak, for comparison to the "map" page of a portable GPS.
The “map page” of a chart bag. More coverage, more quickly than with any GPS or tablet.

Less urgently, but still usefully: during pre-trip planning at home, you can use the big screen of your computer to scroll electronic charts, and point-and-click waypoints and routes to download to your GPS. But you won’t have that computer with you in camp as you plan the next day’s voyage, often switching things up from your original ideas based on field experience of the area. Rather than just squinting through the letterbox slot of your GPS screen, use your paper charts for big picture planning, then scroll to add any additional required waypoints on the GPS.

Similarly, I prefer to use my GPS in conjunction with, not in replacement for, my old school magnetic compass. Why? Imagine yourself paddling a long crossing directed solely by your GPS. See how pretty is the pixel picture it paints of the virtual world on its chart page! See how it counts down the distance and ETA to your destination in such encouragingly bite-sized increments! See how precisely its compass arrow points the way! See the spiked deadhead log you’ve just punctured the bow of your boat against! Oh, wait – why didn’t you see that? Because your eyes were magpied by those shiny moving screens, distracted in the same way that drivers become intexticated by their phones. 

Less lethally, but still tragically, there’s much else you might miss when bowing to the electronic idol on your spraydeck shrine: the bright flash of a passing puffin, or the soft roil of migrating humpbacks, or a baby sea otter bobbing expectantly as it waits for mom to surface with breakfast, or any of the million-and-one things you are presumably out there paddling in order to experience.

How to avoid missing all that? Set your GPS to display the compass bearing to your target waypoint (use the settings menu to ensure it’s displaying a magnetic bearing rather than a true North bearing, and that it is autocorrected for local magnetic variation). Check this reading periodically as you paddle, but actually steer by the bow compass on your kayak. Result: with your head up and your eyes focused for distance, you’ll have much expanded situational awareness (and much reduced susceptibility to seasickness). And if the GPS should decide to shit its pants (sorry about that technical mumbo-jumbo) mid-crossing, reverting to the deck compass for navigation is smooth and panic-free, since you’re already using it to steer to the last known bearing to your waypoint. (Based on how that bearing was changing up to the point of GPS failure, you’ll know whether you were being drifted to the left or to the right, and hence which way to turn to find camp once you hit the shoreline.) 

In choppy water, a bow compass is a far less (sea) sickening sight than a GPS on your spraydeck.

BTY, Class D/Class H handheld marine VHF radios have integrated GPSs, and therefore offer navigation pages with a compass pointing to your selected waypoint. But none that I know of offer full marine chart pages (yet – the market is always evolving!) So the navigation experience they offer looks and feels like that of stand-alone GPSs from two decades ago. Also, I like to have my VHF in a holster on my PFD, rather than on the deck, in case of separation from my kayak (When it comes to emergency equipment: If you don’t have it on you—you don’t have it!) So for those reasons, I’d never rely on my radio as my primary electronic navigation tool. That said, if I found myself in swirling fog and currents, uncertain of my position and with my primary GPS inoperable, I would absolutely use the VHF GPS for my Hail Mary play.

Aside from the sheer satisfaction of using the traditional skills and technology of charts and compass, and the sense of connection that gives me with all the generations of seafarers who have come before me, there is that practical benefit of redundancy in the event of equipment failure. (I felt a smug sense of vindication when I learned that the US Navy, after having skipped celestial navigation training for an entire generation of officers on the grounds that GPS had rendered it obsolete, brought back sextant schooling several years ago.)

So think of compasses and charts and hardcopy tide and current tables not as low tech but as highly robust tech. If none of them had previously existed and someone introduced them today as a navigation suite that doesn’t depend on satellites or subscriptions, never needs batteries, is pretty much impervious to salt water damage, and is immune to spoofing*, that would sound pretty damn amazing. As it is!

*With the exception of the “self spoofing” you can accomplish by packing your steel hatchet in the bow compartment just under your deck compass. Or by letting the magnetic clasps on your waterproof phone case swing too close to the hiker’s compass in your chart bag. You deviants

Different Angles On Sea Kayak Compass Navigation

If you’ve done any map/chart and compass navigation at all, you’ve wrestled with the inconvenient truth: with some very limited local exceptions, in most parts of the world, the needle on your compass does not point to the true North pole (the Northern tip of the axis around which the Earth revolves, also known as the geographic North pole); instead, that needle usually points to the magnetic North pole. Sort of. Because what that needle is actually doing is aligning itself with the local magnetic field of the Earth. And those local fields are heavily influenced by currents and counter-currents in the sea of molten iron that swirls far below the Earth’s outer crust.

kayak deck compass with sail reflection
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Shoulder season on the Sound: Hotham Sound

September 30, 2021

During the drive to Earl’s Cove, heavy rain showers coated the winding road with sheets of water a centimeter deep at times. It was uninspiring, but by the time we arrived at the ferry terminal, it had cleared.

As we approached Saltery Bay on our second ferry ride of the day, we could see Freil Falls (AKA Harmony Falls) in the distance off the starboard side. Shortly afterward, the ferry crew announced whales cavorting off the port side. I snapped a couple of photos of the “you can’t quite make it out, but this black blur is a whale” variety.

The Falls in the distance
A humpback whale spyhops in the distance

By the time we’d landed it was late afternoon. Packing the boats for the first time on any trip always involves a couple of hours of faffing about, especially when you have to go park the car several hundred meters from the put-in after offloading. So we opted to car camp at Mermaid Cove that night, and make a single hop, all by daylight, to our intended destination at Elephant Point the next day.

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The Trip That Wasn’t (Part 2)

August 20, 2001

Though I had set my watch alarm for 6:30AM, when my bladder alarm went off at 3:30AM, the wind was howling fiercely through the trees and the barometer had continued to fall. I switched off the clock alarm and slept in until 8AM – which was fine: as it turns out the wind continues to blow against me and whitehorses gallop north through the passage as far as the eye can see.

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The Trip That Wasn’t (Part 1)

August 13, 2001

Just getting to the put-in at Prince Rupert from Vancouver has proven to be an epic. I’d driven up from Vancouver to Port Hardy and camped at the Wildwood Campground. The Port Hardy to Prince Rupert ferry which was supposed to leave at 7:30AM on Sunday, August 12, had engine troubles. On the plus side, this meant I didn’t have to get up at 4:30AM to hike from the campground to the ferry terminal. Having driven over to the terminal at 7:30 and dropped my kayak and equipment, I drove back to the campground to park my car long term, and caught a lift back to the terminal in the RV of a friendly Dutch family I’d been chatting with the evening before. 

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Electric Pump for Sea Kayak, Mark III

For several boats now, I’ve been outfitting my sea kayaks with electric pumps. (My reasons are explained in the first part of this posting.)

an electric pump in a sea kayak

So I’ve fitted my new-to-me Valley Etain with an electric pump as well. The overall design is pretty similar to my last pump, with a waterproof Pelican battery box designed to let me run the system on either 12 rechargeable AA batteries or 8 alkaline AAs. A stretchy Velcro strap and a pair of stainless steel footman’s loops hold the battery pack in place against the bulkhead at the back of the cockpit.

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Valhalla Warrior: Solo Kayaking And Hiking On Slocan Lake, Part 2

July 12, 2003
I slept until 7:00, clearly tired out after my hike down from the hills yesterday. What with breaking camp and chatting with my neighbours, I didn’t launch until 10AM.


a sea kayaker paddles down a lakeIt was a perfect morning’s paddling. I came across two sunken barges, easily visible in the clear, fresh water. Like shipwrecks in the sea, these old hulks act as reefs and nurseries for life. They swarm with minnows and a few full-grown trout. Continue reading

Predatory Rites: Finding one’s place in the Polar food chain

a tent wrecked by a bear attack

The tent post-attack. Sorry for the shaky picture; I was still pretty shaky myself.

There is nothing quite like the experience of nearly being eaten to make you appreciate how fleeting your position atop the food chain is. In the summer of 1993, I became one of the lucky few to acquire this sort of insight.

Backcountry tourists, as opposed to those who live in the wilderness, seem to fall into two equally simple-minded groups. Those of the old school are convinced that behind every bush, a predator lurks expressly for them. They are barely able to stagger down trails under the burden of rifles and grenade launchers. Late-night forays to answer the call of nature are made perilous by the razor wire and minefields they have used to “secure” the camp perimeter. These folks have delusions about their own importance in the scheme of things. Continue reading